One of the biggest money makers in the salon is gray coverage. Clients want to cover the grays and have great natural looking, long lasting color. One of the skills you were most likely taught in cosmetology/beauty school is that you can only cover hair using a level 8 blonde shade. This is sort of true. I say sort of because in some clients depending on their hair texture they may be able to get gray coverage with using a level 9 blonde. There is a risk that the shade will not fully cover all of the gray because of lack of pigment. Think of the hair color tubes as being filled with a small amount of pigment and a lot of ammonia (alkalizer). For the longest time I had my grandma as my client who would use the same old level 8 medium golden blonde color formula. This was the same formula she had since my mom created it back in 1992.
Over time the color started to look drab and dull. This was because the original formula had blue in it and thus was causing the white hair to look ever more dull. remember that if you add cole tones to gray or white hair it will only make them look duller and drabber. Clients may hear the world gold and freak out because they may be thinking of a King Midas gold hue. The reality is that gold is used to aide in gray coverage and to brighten up the shade (this is because of the yellow pigment). We tried the level 9 hair color using Redken Color Gels 1 1/2 oz 9N and 1/2oz 9NG with 2oz of 20vol developer (if the hair is resistant try mixing 20 and 30 to make 25vol). We used the same formula for shades eq to gloss everything for 30min and add more pigment. Making your light (over a level 8) gray coverage blondes a double process can ensure one happy client.
One day (and I knew this was coming), my grandma asked to go even lighter. I tried to explain that a lighter shade would most likely not cover the gray but I could try something else to create the illusion of a very bright blonde. I used the lightest shade a level 10NW with 20vol and processed the full 45min. As expected there were still some gray left over. I then shampooed the hair and towel dried it, so I could apply a 10NG shade. I processed the shade for about 45min and rinsed. The end result was a bright blonde that looked natural and had a lot of shine.
I do want to mention that my grandma is one of my favorite clients, and she does not mind some experimenting to get the correct or ideal result. Please do not try this on your client if what you have been doing before worked. This is a last resort skill that should be tried when the client keeps wanting lighter and brighter. Also, my grandmas hair is straight and fine, on coarse hair this may not work, unless you have a client who wants the translucent blonde look (believe me they exist…). Also know that some color lines have a pre-blended base meaning that the base of the N shade may be slightly cool so you need to read the color manual or swatch book to get an idea. If there is a NG (natural or neutral gold, use that one instead).
Best of luck coloring, Let me know how your formulas turn out.
kaleclub 