How to fake the illusion of Bright Blonde on 100% White Hair

One of the biggest money makers in the salon is gray coverage. Clients want to cover the grays and have great natural looking, long lasting color. One of the skills you were most likely taught in cosmetology/beauty school is that you can only cover hair using a level 8 blonde shade. This is sort of true. I say sort of because in some clients depending on their hair texture they may be able to get gray coverage with using a level 9 blonde. There is a risk that the shade will not fully cover all of the gray because of lack of pigment. Think of the hair color tubes as being filled with a small amount of pigment and a lot of ammonia (alkalizer). For the longest time I had my grandma as my client who would use the same old level 8 medium golden blonde color formula. This was the same formula she had since my mom created it back in 1992.

Over time the color started to look drab and dull. This was because the original formula had blue in it and thus was causing the white hair to look ever more dull. remember that if you add cole tones to gray or white hair it will only make them look duller and drabber. Clients may hear the world gold and freak out because they may be thinking of a King Midas gold hue. The reality is that gold is used to aide in gray coverage and to brighten up the shade (this is because of the yellow pigment). We tried the level 9 hair color using Redken Color Gels 1 1/2 oz 9N and 1/2oz 9NG with 2oz of 20vol developer (if the hair is resistant try mixing 20 and 30 to make 25vol). We used the same formula for shades eq to gloss everything for 30min and add more pigment. Making your light (over a level 8) gray coverage blondes a double process can ensure one happy client.

One day (and I knew this was coming), my grandma asked to go even lighter. I tried to explain that a lighter shade would most likely not cover the gray but I could try something else to create the illusion of a very bright blonde. I used the lightest shade a level 10NW with 20vol and processed the full 45min. As expected there were still some gray left over. I then shampooed the hair and towel dried it, so I could apply a 10NG shade. I processed the shade for about 45min and rinsed. The end result was a bright blonde that looked natural and had a lot of shine.

I do want to mention that my grandma is one of my favorite clients, and she does not mind some experimenting to get the correct or ideal result. Please do not try this on your client if what you have been doing before worked. This is a last resort skill that should be tried when the client keeps wanting lighter and brighter. Also, my grandmas hair is straight and fine, on coarse hair this may not work, unless you have a client who wants the translucent blonde look (believe me they exist…). Also know that some color lines have a pre-blended base meaning that the base of the N shade may be slightly cool so you need to read the color manual or swatch book to get an idea. If there is a NG (natural or neutral gold, use that one instead).

Best of luck coloring, Let me know how your formulas turn out.

My Experience Behind The Chair and Why I Decided To Go Freelance

Right towards the end of cosmetology school I started a job at a salon (I will be keeping names and the salon anonymous). The job was being an assistant and essentially being responsible for every salons worst nightmare (kids cuts). The owner was very nice but firm with certain things such as being responsible for your own education (none was offered in the salon), only answering one phone because there was illegal booth renting in the salon. In my state of NJ booth renting is illegal. This is not fair in my eyes because it is a big part of the reason that stylists are forced to either go freelance or quit the salon industry because it makes growing in one salon near impossible.

Most salons work on a level or summit system. This means that when the owner or other stylists see that you are ready they will put you at a level 1 stylist. The level 1 stylist means that you have set prices and when you move to a level 2 stylist you will be allowed to raise your prices. This tends to anger clients as well as put pressure on you the professional. Should the salon go under, you get fired, or heaven forbid have to move guess what!? You will be forced to essentially start out as an assistant again and have to move up the ranks again. In states that allow booth renting stylists have the ability to do what they love best and this creates an atmosphere of community and compassion because if one stylist is strictly a colorist they can have their friend in the salon who only does hair cutting and styling finish them and you both will make a profit. In my state very few salons departmentalize so it means that if you are not strong in everything you will be unlikely to be able to move from assistant to your own chair.

In my salon I was there for a little over a year and was promised a promotion that kept getting pushed back because the truth was we were understaffed. My mentor was not efficient and did little to educate me on color or cutting. All of what I learned came from books, trade shows, and education that I all paid for on my own with a second job. My salon would have minor conflicts from the other business present in the place. I could not answer their phone so it got awkward when I had to let it ring. If one stylist needed more time I had to apply the color or foils but they stylist would get paid for work that I did. Around this time I started to believe more in myself and as I grew with my YouTube I figured I finally had enough so I put in my two weeks. To my knowledge the salon has since gone under, it was a slow sinking ship from when I started. I felt comfortable taking clients on my own free time at my house or their home. I liked the idea of being an educator so towards the end of my psychology BA, I felt like I could be an educator and learn from others because my teaching philosophy is teaching and learning go hand in hand. At the current moment I am looking into getting an educator certificate.

 

Hair color 101- Is the Color Wheel Always Right!?

In cosmetology school something that always confuses a lot  of students is the color wheel. This is essentially the basis of a lot of  early work and color choice decisions made by students when doing hair. I too still use the color wheel but I have a new take on the use. Here are just a few points on how the color wheel may or may not work:

1. The Color Wheel Works in One Direction Only- By this I mean that one cannot un-do blond hair that has turned green by tossing bright red on it. To do so would result in a horrid shade of brown translucent red. In other cases the color wheel does not give you the expected result. This is in part due to the intensity of the current hair color and how translucent the selected toner or hair color being used is.
2. Most of The Time Tertiary Colors are Left Out- Your tertiary colors are you Red-Violets (Rv), Red-Orange (Ro), Blue Green- Bg, Yellow- Green (would be an ash or gold iridescent). In addition most color wheels do not recognize the other colors such as Copper red (Cr), Titanium, Violet red (Vr), Red gold (Rg or Gr), etc.  These tones can be used for some fashion looks or added into natural color to make it have a nice tone. Used as a toner they can tone out unwanted tones or be used over blonde for fashion colors.
3. The Color Wheel Gives You A Frame Work, but It is Up to The Colorist to Make Adjustments- The colorist will use the color wheel to take into account what level to tone for and by some extent this will aide in developer selection. The best example would be me a natural level 3. I tend to pull orange red when lifted more then 2 levels. If i wanted to be a level 6 Ash (A). I would use 30vol and an ash color such as A, AA, AB, or Av. In this example I have many different shade choices that are available. It also gets complicated when lets say I want hi lights with a higher level or a hi lift color. In some cases pulling warm undertones is a positive thing. This is the case with doing reds both fashion and natural. Without the warmth the color red will look drab and boring.
4. The Myth that Brown is 3 Parts Yellow, 2 Parts Red, 1 Part Blue.- This part of the cosmetology textbook always confuses me and the students. I was taught this but was lost on how to formulate for this ratio. I ended up ignoring it and would formulate according to my manufactures swatches and guide. It’s a great thing I did not try this on someones head because recently when I took a class with Tom Dispenza I learned that this ratio makes an ugly green. I do want to try this on a hair swatch using direct dye and see if it makes the same result.
5. The Color Wheel will Vary From Each Manufacturer and so Will The Color Swatches- Just like how my version of red or blonde is going to be different compared to what my client is thinking, each hair color line is formulated differently. This is not a bad thing, rather a good thing. I look at this like a positive because I am the artist and I can make the line work for me and my needs. I do want to stress that for some what may look like a nice red on the swat, the clients hair is at a different level so it may be lighter or darker then expected. Making your own swatches can be helpful especially if you are freelance.
6. When Using a Hair Color Remover This Will Effect How you Use The Color Wheel- When using a hair color remover make sure to consult your color wheel. You may have to either use a different tone or adjust your formula. Some color removers behave like bleach and this can mean that your color will end up brighter as a result so doing a test strand with a tweaked formula is recommended.
7. Gray Hair Must be Accounted for or The Color Wheel May Work Too Well- Ever seen an older woman with blue or pink hair? I have! This is usually because when at the salon she was colored or toned with a  formula that did not take into account her percentage of gray. In more extreme cases I have seen the result of a client using a hi lift red hair color at home and she ended up with a translucent flamingo pink color. This is because gray hair has no pigment in it and what happens is these strands of hair will absorb the actual color and reflect a brighter tone back. This is sometimes not a big deal for a few pieces of gray hair because it can give a cool hi-lighted effect for red hair or warmer browns, but when its most or all of the hair you can have one very unhappy client.

Overall, I love the color wheel. I can be helpful for finding shades that compliment each other, often called analogous. It also is great for teaching the basics of how the color theory works. When used with advanced education such as knowing when the color wheel may not work as expected it can help students think critically about how to formulate for situations that are tough, or to not be as shocked when a bad outcome occurs. Knowing the color wheel can help to avoid disaster when working with the fun direct dyes. Personally I like the model of a painters swatch guide like Pantone because there are various color shades and choices, just like using a color line the artist can combine or create just about any color.

Things No One Tells You About Cosmetology School…

So in recent years I have been seeing an increased interest for the cosmetology and beauty related field. There is a lot of confusion about what to expect, as well as how you can build a career for yourself.

For starters cosmetology is not a degree program. That being said programs that try to sell it as such are often heavily overpriced and this does not mean that you will leave skilled. My program was much cheeper compared to the other local one. Yet my school had Redken hair color, as well as more advanced training. The instructor you have also matters.

Some cosmetology instructors can be incredibly strict and military style. This is not always the best learning approach. If your instructor is on the state board or was formerly on the state board… be warned it could mean that your class will be reading chapter 1-32 from start to finish.

The clinic, oh where to start. Be in mind that your practical hours will fell like they are super long. They days however fly by once you fall into the swing of things. Depending on your school you may be given more free reign or you may have a helicopter instructor. Some of the clients that come in may be crazy for lack of a better word or older. Knowing how to deal with each client type is impertinent.

Responsibility. Most of the time when I hear people whine on social media that they are having trouble holding down a job it is mostly because they are lazy and have not put in the effort needed. When I was in cosmetology school only one out of the few others was mindful about being on time and responsible. A client in the real world will not care about your break up and would expect you will be at work. Cosmetology school is no different and some instructors will not be forgiving if you miss hours. You must take accountability for your own learning, as well as do continuing education. Partying here or there is not an issue but when you are doing yourself and the salon a disservice by partying frequently instead of investing in continuing education it may be time to rethink careers.

A key part of the course is learning to pass state board. State board exams are usually a combination of a written exam and a hands on practical exam. If your school offers dress rehearsals, consider taking them up on the generous offer. Some schools may also provide transportation and I highly recommend taking them up on it because if the bus is late you will still be allowed in. If you are late to your own exam… well too bad you must take it again and cover the fees.

Forming healthy relationships with your classmates is important. This is because you will work as a team. If there is an unhealthy environment filled with drama, this will make the whole room hard to work in. Having people who talk behind each others backs can make each day stressful as well as upset clients. I tended to keep my head low when I was in school because there was drama but towards the end it got a lot better.

I recommend journaling your whole cosmetology experience. It was a series of highs and lows when I took the program. I also want to encourage students to also consider college. Having a trade always helps. Even if you decide not to go behind the chair there are plenty of other opportunities this license will allow you. You can make a living by doing friends hair at the dorm, or doing a freelance side business. Having the license will also set you apart when you are applying for jobs, as well as make you eligible for some scholarships.

Best of luck in your future careers!!!

-Vinny

 

Back After A Long Sabbatical

Hey Everyone!!! I am so sorry for not posting in lets see… about 2 years 😦 . A lot has gone on (thankfully for the good!!!). So for starters I want to let you all know the strides I have made…

• Graduated with my BA Cum Laude and was in the National Honors Society
• Started a job last year that because full time
• Did a clinical internship
• Got my cosmetology license
• Got a second job to help pay for graduate school

That is everything in a nutshell. I was super stressed with school and worried I was not going to make it. I grew so much from the whole experience, and I have also been more active on youtube.